We saw three National Parks, a National Historic Site, a Presidential Museum, and two cemeteries. We went up in a tower and down into a cave. We snacked on junk food from "travel centers" (my favorites are Skor bars, Gold Peak green tea, and Fairlife milk). Let's look at our trip, day by day.
Day 1, Sunday, March 15th: Colorado to Kansas to Oklahoma
We got on the road fairly early (for us), 9:51 am according to my notes. It had snowed the night before (had to scrape off the car) and was very cold, but the real problem, especially once we got out east, was the wind! When we stopped for gas in Limon, Colorado ($3.699/gallon), the wind hit me like I don't know what. It must have been blowing 60 mph, and so cold! We saw a semi that had blown over into the median, and I'm sure it wasn't the only one that day. I was coming down with Teen A's cold, had a sore throat which I was trying to ignore, and the weather didn't help!
We took 287 south past various farming communities (Eads, Kit Carson) and the wind was just unbearable. Huge dust clouds making it hard to see the road. And so cold. I noticed on my phone that we were close to Amache, which is one of the Japanese internment camps that's been made into a National Historic Site, so I asked if we could make a tiny detour and see it. Only problem was the wind! I got out of the car and walked around briefly, but everyone else stayed in the car. I know this photo makes it look like it was a nice calm day, but it wasn't. Maybe another time we'll make it back for a better look.We stopped for a very late lunch/early dinner at a Black Bear Diner in Garden City, Kansas, got gas ($3.159/gallon), and then continued on into Oklahoma. Our hotel for the night was an independent one, the Northwest Inn in Woodward, OK. Our rooms were next to each other and we could open the connecting door between them. I shared with Teen A. I had requested rooms with an outside entrance, so that we could get to and from the car easily, and that was a mistake. We went inside and looked at the lovely pool, but the thought of going back and forth in a wet swimsuit, with wet hair, and that terrible wind blowing... we just couldn't face it. We'll go in the next hotel's pool, we told ourselves. Dinner was snacks and leftovers from the Black Bear.Day 2, Monday, March 16th: Oklahoma to Arkansas
In the morning the wind had died down a little, but it was still blowing and the temperature was in the 20s. After breakfast in the hotel, we packed up the car, got gas at a Love's ($3.219/gallon) and drove southeast to Okeene, Oklahoma, where my great-grandparents (father's mother's parents) got a farm in the 1892 land rush, after emigrating from Russia. My grandmother was born there. I had directions from Findagrave, but it wasn't an address, more like "turn left, turn right, and go down a ways." As we were approaching the town, we saw a sheriff's car coming toward us. And he saw us, too. He pulled over, made a U-turn, and turned on his lights. Teen A pulled over and got out his license. Oh dear. Turned out he was doing 84 mph in a 65 mph zone. Oh dear. The ticket was for $279. Oh dear. "I'll pay it," I told Teen A. "But you SLOW DOWN." And in fact he did, somewhat, for the rest of the trip. So, for that we were really indebted to the sheriff, who I dubbed Officer Friendly (not to his face).
As Officer Friendly was walking back to his car, it occurred to me that he might know where the cemetery was. So Rocket Boy called to him and he came back. "Do you know where Ebenfeld Cemetery is?" I asked him. "I've been there once, but it was a long time ago" (in fact, around 35 years ago). Officer Friendly thought about it, and then gave us directions that matched what I'd gotten off Findagrave. Feeling more confident, we drove through town and turned right. And after a bit, we found it. It's every bit as desolate as the cemetery in Nebraska where my father's father's parents are buried. But it's still being used. Teen B found the grave of someone who died in 2024. Someone had put a sign saying "Merry Christmas" in front of it (obviously hadn't visited recently).After the cemetery, we drove on across Oklahoma. I wanted to avoid Oklahoma City, so we took Highway 51 instead. Northern Oklahoma was quite pleasant, green and with lots of cows. We stopped in Stillwater for gas ($3.179/gallon at Walmart) and went to a Starbucks for a sort of lunch. While there, we noticed a man sitting near us wearing a MAGA cap. Ah, Oklahoma. But I've got to say one thing: I had expected to have to watch Fox News every morning at breakfast, but NOT ONE HOTEL that we stayed at had their breakfast room TV tuned to Fox. We saw ABC, NBC, ESPN, and the Weather Channel. Never Fox. Not even CBS, which is trying to become the new Fox. I'm used to having to watch Fox in every hotel, but not on this trip to the "Upper South." I don't know what's changed, but it seemed like something had.I wanted to drive through Tahlequah (Cherokee capital), but we got our directions mixed up and just got on I-40 after Tulsa instead. But we still saw plenty of Indian license plates: a Muskogee one, several Cherokee ones, and some others. The kids couldn't believe Indian tribes could issue their own license plates. So it was a learning experience.We finally crossed over into Arkansas and then we had a long drive to our hotel. We got our cheapest gas of the trip at a Harp grocery store in Waldron ($2.789/gallon). After checking in to our Best Western in Hot Springs, we went to dinner at a nice restaurant called the Brick House Grill. What I liked best about it was that I could order a single baked sweet potato! So that's what I had for dinner, plus a side salad. Delicious.Our hotel, a Best Western across from a racetrack, had a pool -- but it was an outdoor pool. And it was still freezing, although fortunately the wind had calmed down. So no swimming. But again, our rooms were next to each other and we could open the connecting door. I shared with Teen B. My sore throat was turning into a real cold, so that night I took cold medicine, which did help.
Day 3, Tuesday, March 17th: Arkansas to Tennessee to Kentucky
I had only allotted an hour or so for our visit to Hot Springs National Park, because, you know, how interesting could it be? In fact, it was very interesting, and we spent a couple of hours there and could have spent much more. The Visitor Center is in one of the old bathhouses on Bathhouse Row, and it contains a large museum. We watched a film about the history of the park, and then wandered around. We also visited the gift shop (my favorite activity), which was in another bathhouse.
Then we drove into the park proper and went to the Hot Springs Mountain Tower. I had read that this is run by a private company, but they still gave us a discount based on my parks pass. I didn't pay much attention to what things cost on the trip (except gas). It's only money, I kept saying. We took the elevator up to the top of the tower, which is 216 feet tall, and spent some time looking at the view. Then I had the bright idea to walk DOWN from the tower, which you can do -- you can walk up it, too, if you're crazy. Anyway, we all walked down, and after 216 feet of steps down, my legs were in pain.
It would have been nice to spend more time there, but we needed to get to Kentucky. So we got back in the car and drove all the way across Arkansas to West Memphis on the border, right across the river from Memphis, Tennessee. Rocket Boy found a restaurant that sounded interesting, Sizzlin Skillet, so we drove there. And I took one look at the sign, which advertised "Soul Food," and panicked. "Let's not go here," I said. "It's going to be all Black people." My kids were horrified. "Mom!" Teen A said. "How can you be so racist?" I felt so ashamed of myself, and yet I was still afraid. "Why don't you go in and I'll wait in the car," I suggested, but of course Rocket Boy wouldn't agree to that. Finally we ended up at Applebee's, a few blocks away. And of course, ha ha, everyone in Applebee's was also Black. But I felt safe, because it was a chain restaurant. Sure. Makes so much sense (not).
I did a little research on West Memphis, and although it's majority Black, it's about 30% white. It was OK for us to be there. I didn't need to be afraid. And yet I was. I apologized profusely to the kids for being so racist, but I couldn't shake my fear. I told the kids I was feeling racial guilt because we were approaching Kentucky where I knew I had ancestors who had owned slaves. I left our Applebee's waitress a large tip, which I explained to the kids was in lieu of reparations. Oh, the whole thing was nuts. But there you are.We got gas at Exxon ($3.499/gallon), and drove on, across the river and into Tennessee, and then all the way across Tennessee (from top to bottom, that is). It was very pretty, very green and rural, although I kept thinking that it would be so much prettier in about a month. We finally crossed the border into Kentucky very late, and reached our hotel in Kuttawa around 8 pm. Motel, I should say. It was a Relax Inn and I shared with Teen A. The rooms were next to each other, but we couldn't open the connecting door. It was an older motel, right off the highway, but actually very comfortable and quiet. We decided to skip dinner, just ate some snacks from the car. I took another dose of nighttime cold medicine and slept well.
Day 4, Wednesday, March 18th: Kentucky to Indiana
Time to face my past. Kuttawa, Kentucky is very close to Eddyville, Kentucky, where some of my ancestors once lived (the slave-owning ones). They actually lived in old Eddyville, much of which is now underwater, but the old cemetery still exists (it's on a hill) and I knew that a sister of my mother's father's father's father was buried there. Her name was Arisba and she was born in 1820 and died in February 1864, same month and year as her husband Elzathan (the photo shows their two headstones).
The cemetery was pretty easy to find -- it's historic, so there were signs leading to it. We parked the car and started wandering the hillside. It had been snowing lightly earlier, but had stopped by then. I knew what the headstone looked like, from Findagrave, so eventually I spotted it. It's almost illegible, but I could still read her name. There were numerous confederate soldiers buried there too. I texted a picture of her gravestone to my sisters and said something about how there must have been "something going around" in 1864 to kill both Arisba and her husband. My sister texted back, "The civil war was going around." Oh, yeah. Kentucky in 1864 was not a good place to be.After half an hour or so we got back on the road and drove to Mammoth Cave National Park, stopping at a Marathon station for gas ($3.699/gallon). Our tour wasn't until 2:30 pm, so we first walked across the footbridge from the visitor center to the lodge and ate lunch at the Green River Grill. The menu was minimal, but I had a grilled cheese sandwich, which was fine. They had desserts -- and we had time -- so Rocket Boy and I split a piece of "Derby Pie," Teen A had his own piece, and Teen B had chocolate ice cream. A little before 2:30 we walked over to where we waited to board the buses that would take us to the cave entrance. It was still fairly cold -- at one point it was sleeting.In retrospect, I think I made a mistake here. There were various tours you could sign up for (I had done this online, a week ahead), and I had signed us up for the "Domes and Dripstones Tour," which was billed as "scientific." But I think a better choice would have been the "Historic Tour." Either way it probably would have been hard for me, because of my questionable decision to walk DOWN from the Hot Springs Mountain Tower the day before. My thighs and calves were still aching. I could barely walk on flat ground, and walking either upstairs or downstairs was exquisitely painful. The "Domes and Dripstones Tour" involves 640 stairs, including 96 that were optional (guess what? I skipped them!). Because we were part of a tour (with 100 people on it!), you had to keep moving, you couldn't stop. I did stop at one point, going up a dreadful staircase, and tried to get the people behind me to go ahead of me, but they wouldn't, they just stood there sympathizing. So I pulled myself together and kept going.And the silly thing about the whole tour was that the cave wasn't even very interesting! Nothing at all like Carlsbad Caverns last year. I kept waiting for the big reveal -- the room of beauty. There wasn't one. It's not really that kind of cave. Its main claim to fame is that it's incredibly long, over 400 miles, the longest cave in the world. But it doesn't have a lot of beautiful things to look at. Just these "cave crickets," which looked like spiders. Apparently there are also eyeless fish, the length of someone's pinky, that are endangered. And bats, but we didn't see any.After the tour, which I somehow survived, we went to the Starbucks in the lodge, bought some more things at the gift shop, and got on the road again. It was only about 100 miles to our hotel. We crossed another river (the Ohio) and whoosh, there we were in Indiana.
Our hotel was a La Quinta, and I was predisposed not to like it, because it kept sending me emails. All day long I got emails from La Quinta, asking me to preregister, asking me when I was coming, sending me confirmation after confirmation after confirmation. Seriously, it sent me FIVE confirmation emails. I ignored them all. But when we finally got there, it was fine (although it had an outdoor pool, closed for the season). There was a laundry room on our floor, so after buying some Tide and exchanging $4 for 16 quarters from the desk clerk, I did a load of laundry. Teen B didn't want to go out, but Rocket Boy, Teen A, and I went to a Red Robin that was still open. It was pretty bad. I ordered a Caesar salad with grilled salmon, but the cook made a mistake and fixed it with chicken instead. So the waitress brought me both -- first a gigantic chicken Caesar salad and then a gigantic salmon Caesar salad. And I wasn't hungry -- in fact, I was nauseated. My cold, the effects of my GLP-1 drug (I took my shot Saturday night before we left), the cave trip... whatever it was, I didn't feel like eating. I picked at the salmon, picked at the croutons, ate a few lettuce leaves. One of the TVs in the restaurant was showing a dog show, so I watched that and tried not to think about my stomach. Back at the hotel I took more cold medicine and got a good night's sleep.Day 5, Thursday, March 19th: Indiana to Illinois to Missouri
Finally, the weather improved. We were headed for St. Louis and it was supposed to be in the 70s there! Also, I didn't feel sick anymore. I put on my new lemon yellow t-shirt and wore it with my new lavender raincoat and sandals -- no more puffy coats or black sweaters or heavy shoes for me! I looked rather like an Easter egg, even my shape. And along the way across Illinois we stopped at a rest stop and there was a chocolate bunny in one of the vending machines! We got gas at Costco (Teen A's brilliant idea) for only $3.199/gallon, crossed the Wabash river into Illinois, and then the mighty Mississippi into Missouri.
Once we got to St. Louis, the springlike vibe shifted a little. St. Louis is not only just as screwed up as ever, it's MORE screwed up because they had a terrible tornado roar through there last May. We drove through north St. Louis (the poorest part) because Rocket Boy's old agency has moved into a new building there, and we couldn't decide whether the wreckage we were seeing was due to the tornado or just to St. Louis. I give money every year to an organization called Mission St. Louis that helps poor people, and I made a mental note to increase my contribution next December.
RB couldn't get into his old agency's new building and his colleague who we were trying to meet up with wasn't there, so we stopped by Crown Candy (bought some delicious gummy bears and some chocolate) and then drove on to our favorite place in St. Louis, Fitz's, where we proceeded to order enormous floats. Even Rocket Boy. This photo shows Teen A's float, which was called a "Pink Unicorn." It's vanilla and strawberry ice cream, Shirley Temple soda, whipped cream, berry drizzle, sprinkles, and it was supposed to have a mini ice cream cone (for the unicorn horn) but it had a cookie straw instead. I got a Pina Colada float, because I wanted something to match my outfit. We also ordered food (I got a hummus plate), but it's kind of hard to eat a meal AND actually consume one of these floats. I took most of my hummus plate to go and had it for dinner later. Rocket Boy dumped most of his float into two travel cups and took it to go.Rocket Boy finally got in touch with his colleague, Manny, and he joined us at Fitz's, rather late, and ate a bowl of chili with us. I had never met him before, just listened to him and RB talk about really boring stuff on speakerphone, so it was fun to connect the voice with a body and face. While we were there, we bought 24 bottles of Fitz soda to take home with us.
We talked a long time and then realized we were almost late for our reservations (Rocket Boy and the twins had bought tickets to go up in the Arch again). So we all raced around in a panic, drove across St. Louis at top speed, but we got there in time. Our third National Park of the trip! It hardly counts, since we've been there multiple times, but anyway, it IS a National Park. While the three of them waited in line and finally went up in the arch, I walked through the museum and then sat down and waited. It was fun to people watch, see who comes to St. Louis to see the Arch. (The photo below shows me sitting there, looking like an Easter egg.)After that, we went to the nearby city of Kirkwood to go to the Global Foods Market and buy tea and some other things that Rocket Boy has trouble finding in our area (they're probably here, we just don't know where). Fitting all that into the car, plus the 24 bottles of Fitz soda, plus all our suitcases and the coats we didn't need anymore and everything else we'd bought at gift shops was... interesting. We got gas at a Conoco in Wentzville ($3.699/gallon).We drove on to Columbia, Missouri, to another Best Western, which turned out to be the worst hotel of our trip. It was right off I-70 and it was NOISY. Oh well. Teen A and I turned on the fan to create some white noise in our room and we slept OK, but Rocket Boy and Teen B didn't think of that and had a bad night. Oh, and the indoor pool was freezing, so nobody wanted to go in it. And no dinner (just our leftovers from Fitz). And the breakfast room was sucky. Not a hotel I'd return to, that's for sure.
Day 6, Friday, March 20th: Missouri to Kansas
Once we were in Missouri, it didn't feel as much like a vacation, because we've been here so many times. But we made a stop that was new to me -- the Harry Truman Presidential Library and Museum in Independence. I read David McCullough's biography of Truman last year and just fell in love with the man -- even though he's the guy who ordered the atomic bomb dropped on Japan. He was such a neat person, had so many setbacks in life, but just kept on trying, wanting to do what was right. Not to mention that he fell in love with exactly one woman in his life and was absolutely devoted to her until the day he died.
The museum was very interesting and we spent a long time there (and of course bought lots of things in the gift shop, including three books). I bought a postcard with a picture of Truman's office and this quote:
"Not every Reader is a leader, but every Leader must be a reader."Then we got back on I-70 and drove through Kansas City to a Bob Evans where we had lunch. We got gas ($3.299/gallon) at the Love's that's in the middle of the highway near Lawrence, Kansas, and continued on to Abilene. I had originally planned to go to Eisenhower's library there, but I'm currently reading Eisenhower's biography, and I'm getting a little queasy about him. For one thing, he's responsible for the mess in Iran! I mean, OK, maybe Churchill is responsible too, and Theodore Roosevelt's son Kermit, but Eisenhower could have stopped it and he didn't, he told them to go ahead. It just makes me ill. Anyway, I'll go see his museum another time. Instead, we went to Russell Stover's! We bought a large amount of candy (jelly beans, French mints, s'mores candy, and two big boxes of chocolate), Rocket Boy got a milkshake, and Teen A got a hot fudge sundae, which he later decided he didn't like, so he gave it to me. A very satisfying stop!And then we drove on to our hotel in Hays, Kansas, a Sleep Inn. It was OK, I guess. The hotel was full, so our rooms were nowhere near each other -- Teen A and Rocket Boy were on the second floor, and Teen B and I were on the fourth! There was an indoor pool, and we finally finally finally went in a pool on this trip -- but it wasn't very warm, and it was very small and you couldn't really swim in it, so after a little while we got out and went back to our rooms. Teen A and Rocket Boy went to a Chinese restaurant for dinner, but I just got some snacks from a nearby travel center (we got gas at the same time, $3.399/gallon) and Teen B and I ate snacks for dinner.
Day 7, Saturday, March 21st: Kansas to Colorado
It was really hard to get up on this last day of our trip! Rocket Boy wanted to take an hour and visit the Sternberg Museum of Natural History in Hays, which would have been nice, but Teen A REALLY wanted to get home, so we just left. A few miles out of town Rocket Boy realized he didn't have his (prescription) sunglasses. He called the hotel, they found them, and he gave them his credit card number so they could mail them to us. We could have just gone back for them -- but it was at the point in the trip where you just need to go home.
Rocket Boy suggested we eat lunch at Helga's, in Aurora, but I was worried about all the chocolate we had in the car, since it was now getting very hot, in the 80s. So we stopped at Dulce Espresso & Bakery in Strasburg and the kids got smoothies. And then we just went home.
I had cash left over (I'd taken about $850 in cash with us), so I texted the catsitters and they came right over and I paid them. We unloaded the car. I did a load of laundry. Teen A went off somewhere (his girlfriend's not back from Hawaii yet, so probably to see a friend). Rocket Boy and I went to Panera for dinner and brought Teen B back something awful from Taco Bell. We also got the car washed (it was soooo filthy from the trip).
And later we all went to bed. For six nights I slept alone in queen bed after queen bed, no cats, nobody to bother me. It was so wonderful. And here I was back in the tiny double bed that Rocket Boy and I share, with its uncomfortable old mattress, and of course both cats had to sleep either on me or RIGHT next to me. I thought I would never fall asleep. I wished I was back in a hotel room. But then I thought -- I'm here with people (and cats) who love me. Isn't that better than a hotel room? I decided it was.
But we've got to do something about that mattress.
Now it's Sunday and I'm on my second load of laundry. The dishwasher is running. I need to pay bills. Teen B absolutely refused to do any homework, since it's the last day of spring break, and I can respect that. So I'm just doing my stuff. In a little while I'll go take a walk. I gained 7 pounds on this trip! I think it will come off quickly, though. It's just from not exercising and sitting in a car all day and eating Skor bars for dinner instead of lovely vegetarian casseroles. And Fitz floats. And chocolate from Russell Stover's. And... yeah.
We're home!























































