We
are home from our epic trip to southwest Texas! It was a good trip,
though perhaps not what the twins would have chosen, had they understood
what they were getting into. Last year, after our not much fun Spring
Break trip to St. Louis for Rocket Boy's second surgery, Teen A
suggested that we go to Texas next year. Taking him at his word, I
planned this trip.
Worried
about how to afford it, I had been stockpiling cash for months,
especially after Rocket Boy was fired. Every time I went to the bank, I
got $100 or $150. By the time we left, I had $750, and on the trip I paid
cash as often as I could (though national parks don't take cash).
Yesterday after we got home I paid off both credit cards. I'm still
waiting for a few charges to appear, but the trip is mostly paid for, so
I'm happy about that.
Sunday, March 23
We left Sunday morning, not quite as early as planned because the twins didn't wake up until 9 am (which was when I was planning to leave). But we bustled around and were on the road by about 9:30, which was great. Teen A was the driver -- and he remained the driver for the entire trip! I was delighted, since I hate driving the Highlander. Rocket Boy kept offering to take over, and he kept asking Teen B if HE wanted to drive, but Teen A just kept on driving. He is becoming an excellent driver, just needs to slow down a little. "Teen A, slow down," were the most common words spoken on the trip. I can't remember if I ever saw the speedometer go over 100, but definitely 90s (the speed limit was often 75). He gradually figured out that high speeds on small back roads were dangerous (sudden curves, sudden drops, potholes, dogs lying in the road, etc.) and slowed himself down. I admit I thought getting a speeding ticket might be good for him, but we saw almost no law enforcement vehicles on the entire trip.
We ate lunch at the Country Kitchen in Pueblo, and despite the 50 cent surcharge on eggs, our bill was $2 lower than on our Tucson trip two years ago ($91.09 with tip). Got gas at a Circle K before getting back on the road, and later got gas and snacks at a Love's in Las Vegas, New Mexico. (Snacks from convenience stores are a big thing for the twins and me on road trips. Rocket Boy highly disapproves, but I figure it keeps us happy.) We reached our Best Western in Moriarty, New Mexico around 7 pm, but unfortunately almost no restaurants were open, because it was Sunday. We ended up eating at Arturo's Mexican Food, kind of a dive ($61.28 for the four of us -- I paid cash). I had cheese enchiladas which I couldn't finish. Then we went swimming in the hotel pool, and that was fun, but later I felt sick (from the Mexican food), too sick to take my shot, which I'd brought with me.
Political Task: I made a sign (see photo) and held it up to the car window, but I'm not sure anybody saw it, since we were often in the right lane (I was sitting on the right side of the back seat) and when we did pass cars, Teen A was going 90 miles an hour. Still, I tried.
Teen A was displeased: "Mom, take that sign down!" We had warned the twins and each other not to talk politics on this trip to red red Texas, and Teen A was worried. I would take it down and then put it back up again when he wasn't looking.
Monday, March 24
This was the only day with a serious deadline: we had reservations at Carlsbad Caverns National Park for 1:15 pm and it was a four-hour drive from Moriarty. But we made it! We got up early, ate breakfast at the hotel, and got on the road before 9 am. Even with a stop for gas (& snacks & bathrooms) in Roswell, we made it to the national park before 1:00. There was no time for a formal lunch, so we just ate snacks in the car. But we were early enough that I had time to go to the gift shop and buy postcards and a shirt for Teen A before entering the cave.
When we checked in for our reservation, the ranger told me that if we felt up to it, we should walk down into the cave instead of taking the elevator. I swear he told me it would only take a few minutes, and when I told him my "kids" were teenagers, he said oh yeah, you should definitely do it. I was pleased that he would think I was capable -- must be that 30-lb weight loss.
So we walked down (see photo of me and Teen A standing at the beginning of the walk). It's definitely worth doing -- you see a lot of cool stuff, including the cave swallows at the entrance -- but it's 1.25 miles straight downhill (the equivalent of a 7-story building) in the dark and it took us about an hour. Not 4-5 minutes, which is what I thought the ranger said (Teen B told me he really said "45 minutes to an hour").
By the time we got to the main cavern, I could barely walk. It wasn't the distance, it was the fact that it was all downhill. And then we still had 1.25 miles of walking to do in the main cavern! My calves were terribly sore for the next 3 days.
Before we traversed the main cavern, I insisted on going over to the funny little store they have down there and buying a granola bar and a Sprite, to raise my blood sugar. Rocket Boy was scornful, but I ignored him. I know when I need to eat something and this was one of those times.
The main cavern is incredibly beautiful, with an endless collection of all different kinds of formations. My pictures don't do it justice at all. This is something you just have to see for yourself.
After finally exiting the cave (via the elevator!) we went to the gift shop AGAIN and bought some books, and then drove back to the town of Carlsbad and ate a late lunch/early dinner at a very smelly Denny's ($97.48 plus tip). Then Teen A drove us to our next hotel, the Holiday Inn Express in Van Horn, Texas. They had a pool -- but it had no water in it -- so we just hung out in the room and went to bed early. Very comfortable beds! I felt well enough to take my shot this night.
Political task: There was actually a mailbox down in the cavern at Carlsbad, so while I sat and ate my little snack, I wrote a postcard to Donald Trump, telling him what a wonderful treasure the park was and how he should not fire any rangers, etc. Then I mailed it. A couple was standing there sadly because the little store was out of
postcard stamps, so I gave them some of mine. A good deed and a satisfying political task.
Tuesday, March 25
We were all very tired from Carlsbad, so we got up late and messed around and didn't leave the hotel until maybe 10 am or so. I hadn't planned the day out very well, either, so we didn't get to do everything we wanted to do. But, you know, it happens.
Our first stop was Fort Davis National Historic Site, outside of Fort Davis, Texas (82 miles from our hotel). We got there at 11:50 and the visitor center closed for lunch at 12! I had just enough time to buy a few postcards and glance at some displays before the ranger closed up shop. I asked him if they had been affected by Trump's cuts, but he said they had always been understaffed.
We wandered around -- there was still plenty to see outside of the visitor center -- and then I suddenly realized that Rocket Boy and Teen A were hiking the trail to the top of the mountain! It must have been Teen A's suggestion, because he would never have done a hike if Rocket Boy suggested it, but RB was happy to join Teen A on it. Can you see them up on top in the photo? Rocket Boy is wearing a white shirt and Teen A is all in black. The photo is very blurry because I was zooming in.
I was feeling a little sick from the shot, so I spent most of the time just sitting around on benches with Teen B. We did walk around a little. I saw some wildflowers and a little bird that might have been a rock wren, but I couldn't get a good enough look at it and my binoculars were in the car (Teen A and Rocket Boy had the keys).
We stopped at a grocery store in Fort Davis called Lowe's and bought things to have for lunch (I bought a packaged salad). Total cost was $28.47 -- I paid cash.
Then we drove 32 miles to our next stop, Balmorhea State Park (cost: $7 per person to get in), which has an enormous, incredible swimming pool, built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. I had never heard of this place, but I read about it in the
Lonely Planet Texas travel book I'd picked up a few days before the trip. It is the world's largest spring-fed swimming pool, covering 1.3 acres. Part of the pool is 25 feet deep! It is just huge, like something out of a dream (if you dream about swimming pools, as I often do).
Both Rocket Boy and I really wanted to swim in the pool, but it seemed as though we didn't have time, because we wanted to get to Big Bend National Park in time to go to a visitor center before it closed. So we just sat at picnic tables and ate our lunches, and then I did go down to the water and stick my feet in it. As you can see, the pool has fish in it! That's a catfish swimming past my feet. Oh, how I wish I could have swum in that pool.
But instead we packed up and got back on the road. That was when I discovered, by checking the park website online, that the visitor center I'd been intending to visit, Persimmon Gap, was closed for the season. Oops.
There was another good visitor center to go to, Panther Junction, but we were too late to get there before it closed at 5 pm. Oops. I realized that we really could have gone swimming after all. Oops.
No worries. Stuff like this happens on trips. We decided to just drive to our next hotel, the Terlingua Ranch Lodge. It was a very long drive from Balmorhea to the lodge, 135 miles on winding roads, with the last 3 miles on gravel. We first went back to that grocery store in Fort Davis and got more bottles of iced tea for the road ($7.87), and also stopped for gas at a place called Uncle's in Alpine. We reached the lodge around 6 pm or so and checked in.
I had some misgivings about this "hotel" and might have canceled our reservation and gone somewhere else, except that when you make a reservation, they charge you for the first night -- and it's nonrefundable, something I didn't notice until after I'd made the reservation. Since I had reserved two rooms at $168 each, and $336 seemed like a lot of money to forfeit, I kept the reservation. The kids were not pleased with my choice, but oh well. I thought there were pluses and minuses. Pros and cons.
Pro: spacious rooms in these cute little cabins, good air conditioning, quiet & peaceful, a gift shop (Teen A got a shirt), a place to do laundry (we did), a pool, and an all-day restaurant on site. Also, so many birds! And javelinas walking around in the morning! The lodge has a 2-night minimum, so everyone there was staying at least 2 nights and that seemed to make people friendly. We talked to a lot more people than we did anywhere else on the trip.
Con: a terrible road to get there, very long drive to Big Bend National Park, beds weren't very comfortable, no TVs or coffee makers or microwave, etc., very low-flow showers, extremely spotty internet access, pool was freezing cold.
About that pool: We ate dinner at the on-site restaurant, the Bad Rabbit Cafe (I had a grilled cheese -- cost of the whole dinner before tip was $57.80), and then we went swimming, so it was starting to get dark and the pool was icy. But the bats were out, and they went swooping over the pool, dozens of them, while we swam. It was just heavenly. I had one of those moments that can happen on trips where all was suddenly right with the world. I asked Teen B to take this picture of me in the pool, so I could remember.
When I got back to our room (Teen A and I shared, while Rocket Boy and Teen B had the room next door, with a shared front porch) the song "Bookends" by Simon & Garfunkel was going through my head:
A time it was, and what a time it was, it was
a time of innocence, a time of confidences
Long ago it must be...
I have a photograph
Preserve your memories
They're all that's left you
Big Bend is a "dark sky" area, so we were told to turn off all visible lights by 10 pm. The stars were not actually that great, because it was a little hazy (a storm was approaching). But better than Boulder. We looked at the stars for a long time. And then I had kind of an awful night, because the air conditioning was on too high and was blowing right at my bed and I was too cold to sleep. But eventually I slept.
Political task: I had made some little signs on notebook paper, saying things like "Stop the Coup! Call your senators and representative!" Using tape I bought at a convenience store along the way, I taped one of these little signs to the door of the restroom stall I used at Fort Davis. This may have been considered vandalism, I don't know, but I hope someone saw it and thought about it.
This was supposed to be Big Bend day for real, but we got off to an extremely slow start because the Bad Rabbit Cafe was EXTREMELY slow that morning. We showed up at 9 am and weren't done with breakfast until 10:30! And then Rocket Boy saw someone he'd been talking to the night before, so he went over to that man's table. The kids and I went back to the cabin and watched javelinas wandering around the complex, and I also saw a pair of Pyrrhuloxia! (like grayish Cardinals). I looked for Scaled quail, which people had told us frequented the area, but didn't see any.
RB didn't come back to the cabin until 11, and then we had the long long drive into the park (72 miles on winding roads). We still didn't have a proper map of the park, and of course internet access was terrible, so we couldn't look things up online. I decided that we should go to the Chisos Basin visitor center and talk to a ranger there, but when we got there (around 12:30?) the visitor center was closed for lunch. Of course. However, Chisos Basin is where the park lodge is, and there is a restaurant! So we walked over there and had lunch. We all had wraps -- Teen A and Rocket Boy had hummus wraps, and Teen B and I had something with meat, chicken or turkey or whatever ($74.53 plus tip for all). The food was decent and our waiter was nice and we all felt good after that.

Then the visitor center was finally open, so we went in and talked to a ranger and finally got a map and some advice. Rocket Boy asked the ranger if they'd had firings there and she said yes, but they also had rehirings, so it was better. She was clearly unhappy about the situation, though she didn't say much. I bought some postcards and a key chain for Teen A and some pamphlets about birds and flowers.
Then we set out to "see the park." Since it was already early afternoon and getting very hot, we decided we would just do the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and call it good. That's the #1 recommendation for park visitors, and it's worth doing. We stopped first at Sam Nail ranch and did the half mile loop hike (see RB and Teen A setting out on the walk). It's supposed to be a good place to see birds, but I didn't see any, and Teen B didn't want to sit and wait for some to show up. It was probably in the mid-80s at that point.
We didn't get out at all the stops on the scenic drive, because it kept getting hotter. We did stop at Sotol Vista, because the ranger said it was spectacular.
I suppose the problem with "spectacular" sights for us is that we live in Colorado, plus we've spent time in the Monument Valley area, Arizona and Utah and all that. The type of "spectacular" that you get in Big Bend isn't really all that "spectacular" if you've seen those other places. I mean, Big Bend is really really nice, but not so much because of its "spectacularity."
Thinking about it later, it seemed to me that what's special about Big Bend is its quietness, its loneliness, its desolation (in a positive sense, that is). It reminded us (Rocket Boy and me) of Ridgecrest -- I mean, not exactly, but there were similarities. The Chihuahuan Desert isn't the Mojave Desert, but they're both lovely deserts.
Big Bend is full of prickly pear cactus, and maybe 1/4 of them are purple! Teen B asked me why the cactus was purple, so I looked it up in my wildflower pamphlet from the visitor center. It's just called Purple prickly pear, Opuntia azurea var. diplopurpurea, and it's endemic to the Big Bend region. Somehow I managed not to get a picture of it -- sorry! You'll have to be satisfied with ravens on top of a pit toilet enclosure.
For some reason my family had a very hard time with the name of the national park we were visiting. The kids thought I was saying "Big Ben" and kept looking around for a giant clock. Rocket Boy kept calling it "Great Bend," even when talking to rangers and such, confusing them. The kids, when they got the name sorted out, thought it had something to do with all the winding roads. No, we told them, it's a bend in the river. What river? So we figured we'd better continue driving along until we could actually see the Rio Grande River which gives Big Bend its name.
If it hadn't been so hot (over 90 degrees at this point) we would have taken the Santa Elena Canyon Trail, which is only 1.6 miles round trip. Some people we met at the lodge had done it the day before with their little kids and enjoyed it. But we were approaching misery at this point, so we skipped it. We got out and looked at the river and this lovely view of the canyon... and then went back to the car and headed back down the drive.

We were going to go to the Panther Junction visitor center, but we got there just as it was closing. The gas pumps, however, are open 24/7, so we got gas and then headed off to Terlingua proper (our lodge was not really in Terlingua), where there is a famous eating place called the Starlight Restaurant. We got there around 6 pm, but there was already a long waiting list. We were told the wait would be 90 minutes. "90 minutes!" said the twins. "That's fine," I told the woman, giving her my phone number. She sent me a link to the waiting list, so I could watch us go from #22 to #1, which actually only took about an hour.
While we waited, we wandered around the gigantic gift shop next door to the restaurant. I've never seen a store like that one. It had everything gift-y you could imagine. We eventually bought Teen A a new belt ($27.01) and I considered buying a whole lot of other things... but you know, we have so much stuff...
Then we went outside, where people were sitting around on the porch listening to some old guys play music, and we looked for a Greater Roadrunner that Rocket Boy had seen earlier when he went to the restroom. Internet was better here, so I looked up roadrunner calls and played a recording of one. It sounded a little like a Great-horned Owl. Pretty soon, out popped the roadrunner, to see what other roadrunner was making that noise. This is Rocket Boy's photo, not mine.
Eventually we got to #1 on the waiting list and were called in. It turned out that the Starlight Restaurant is not all that great if you're not a big meat eater. Teen B and Rocket Boy had the salmon, and I had shrimp tacos, which were blazingly hot from jalapenos. (I considered ordering the Tequila Marinated Texas Quail, but I didn't think I would be able to bring myself to actually chew and swallow a quail.) Teen A had a big bowl of chili. It was good, just not quite worth an hour's wait, and our waiter was kind of out of it and forgot to bring our drinks. But it was fine. I paid in cash (about $80 plus tip).
We drove back to the lodge and got there by about 8:40, in time to have dessert at the Bad Rabbit Cafe before it closed at 9. I know, gilding the lily, but it was our last night in Big Bend -- why not go for broke? Teen A and I had brownie sundaes, Teen B had a plain brownie, and Rocket Boy had a piece of cheesecake. Then we went to bed, and around 11 pm it started to rain. We were treated to the biggest thunderstorm the Big Bend area had experienced in years. It went on for hours, constant thunder and lightning, over 2 inches of rain in all. It was hard to sleep, but I didn't mind.
Political task: We decided that our talk with the ranger was one political task for the day, but I also wrote President Trump another postcard, this one about Fort Davis and the buffalo soldiers there, and how they were so much better than stupid DUI hire Pete Hegseth (the "Signal" story had just broken). I mailed it in the park but I can't remember where, maybe at Chisos Basin.
Thursday, March 27
Time to bid adieu to the Big Bend country and start driving back to Boulder. I found myself curiously sad to be leaving the area. In the morning it had stopped raining, but everything was wet and it was a little chilly (especially compared to the 90 degree temps the day before). Teen A and I woke up early and packed, but at 9 am, when I knocked on Teen B and Rocket Boy's door, I discovered them both still sound asleep. While they got up and dressed and packed, I looked for birds. I saw a darling female Ladder-backed Woodpecker in a tree by our cabin, and then three Curve-billed Thrashers! That's apparently a common bird in that area, but I couldn't remember ever having seen one before. Absolutely adorable. One of them sat still in a tree so I could examine its yellow eyes and curved bill. It looked exactly like the picture in my book. We didn't see any javelinas that morning, but I did see an enormous jackrabbit with long ears, the biggest rabbit I'd ever seen.
The one thing I forgot when packing up was my nightgown -- I think it was tangled up in the sheets and blankets of the bed and I didn't spot it. Such a funny thing to lose. I've had that nightgown for decades. Oh well.

We skipped breakfast, because the cafe was so slow, thinking we'd have brunch in Alpine. But we got stopped on the Terlingua Ranch Road because a section of the road had washed out during the thunderstorm the night before and someone driving a jeep had overturned into it. He was OK, but they were still trying to pull the jeep out that morning (using a John Deere tractor) and we had to wait while they got it out of the way. People had filled a section of the washed-out road with rocks, so that you could drive through, very carefully. All this was done by neighbors -- the county hadn't shown up yet. The sheriff arrived while we were standing around watching. He and Rocket Boy discussed the condition of the road. The sheriff said he'd been telling the county people that they needed to fix the road, but Big Bend only got about 3 inches of rain total last year, and apparently the county people thought it would be like that forever. We saw the county people coming as we drove away.
When we finally got out, we drove to Alpine, where we had lunch in a very fancy restaurant called the Spicewood. It wasn't quite what we wanted, but the food was delicious. I had a wedge salad with sweet potato fries on the side. The salad was so yummy! But I could only manage to eat half and it didn't seem like the kind of thing we could bring with us in the hot car. That was our most expensive meal of the trip -- $101.78 plus tip.
We drove through Marfa and stopped to look at the murals outside of town that celebrate the movie "Giant" that Rocket Boy and I watched back in January when we first decided to go to Big Bend. There was music playing: "Tumbling Tumbleweed." It was a little eerie, especially when you think of James Dean dying in a car crash before the movie was released.
We got gas at a Pilot in Van Horn, then stopped in Roswell and went to Dairy Queen for a snack around 3 pm. We reached the Best Western in Moriarty around 6 pm. None of us were very hungry, but Teen A, Rocket Boy and I went to Chili Hills restaurant for a light meal. I had a baked potato, Teen A had oatmeal, and Rocket Boy had a piece of peach pie ($32.79 plus tip). Then we went back to the hotel and swam in the pool. They had put us in the same room (209) we had Sunday night, and we knew the sofabed (which was supposed to accommodate a twin) was terrible. It was so terrible that both twins refused to sleep in it. Teen B had slept in it Sunday night, so he figured he was done, and Teen A was the driver, so he thought he should have a good bed. So Rocket Boy and I slept in it. "Slept" would be a better way to write it. It was not a good night.
Political task: I wrote another postcard to Trump, all about how wonderful Big Bend is and how he shouldn't fire rangers, etc., but didn't get a chance to mail it.
Friday, March 28
We got up early, on account of the terrible sofabed, and had a decent breakfast in the hotel. Back on Monday I don't think the TV in the breakfast room was on, but this day it was showing Fox News. Lovely. Still, it is educational to watch it sometimes. A vapid blond newscaster reported that Democrats use a lot of bad words when talking about Trump and Musk and whatnot. A banner proclaimed: "Party of Profanity?" over a muted video of a Black Democratic congressman swearing at a crowd of supporters. Then the vapid blond newscaster moved on to something else, not bothering to discuss WHY Democrats might be so angry that they're using profanity. I just shook my head. But Rocket Boy took matters into his own hands and changed the channel to CNN. Nobody said anything and we watched Wolf Blitzer in "The Situation Room" instead.

I thought this would be a bad day -- we were all tired and worn out from the trip. But it was fine. We stopped at a tiny post office in a little town (maybe Villanueva?) for me to mail my postcard to Trump, and then continued on. Rocket Boy wanted to take a look at Fort Union National Monument, outside the little town of Watrous, New Mexico, so we did that. It wasn't very interesting and the ranger seemed depressed. Rocket Boy asked him if he got many visitors to the site and he said "No." But in fact several other people arrived while we were there, so I guess he was having a busy day. The fort is basically in ruins now, and hasn't been rebuilt like Fort Davis, so we walked around looking at ruins and then left.
We had lunch at a little diner called The Oasis in Raton, New Mexico ($56.33 before tip -- I paid cash). From the window of the diner we could see a sign for a Denny's, but I was glad we hadn't known about that. Nice to give an independent restaurant some business. I had a tuna sandwich and a cup of soup -- blazing hot chili which I gave to Teen B to dip his tacos in. I would have trouble living in New Mexico, with everything so hot and spicy.
It was a long boring drive back to Boulder, with one more stop for gas at a Circle K in Colorado City, but we avoided the worst of the rush hour traffic, getting home around 6:30. The cats seemed puzzled but pleased to see us.
Political task: In the ladies room at Fort Union, I taped another one of my little signs to the toilet paper holder. I hope this isn't considered vandalism. It comes right off, since it's just held on with Scotch tape.
Oh, and I also held up my "Deport Elon" sign to the window a lot (I had made it more colorful, using crayons that I bought at a convenience store). As before, Teen A was displeased: "Take that sign down, Mom." I took it down. Then put it up again, back and forth all across New Mexico and Colorado. Again, I don't know if anyone actually saw it.
Saturday and today, March 29-30
Saturday was mainly laundry day (I did three loads). We were going to eat out, but it was raining too hard, so we had some frozen stuff (PF Chang's sesame chicken, peas). I wanted to go to bed early, but we didn't. It's OK.
And now Sunday. Teen B and I have already done the Starbucks run and we are just hanging out on this very gray day. There's a slight chance of rain later, but mostly it's just cloudy. And gloomy, I admit, but I'm really OK with this weather. We really needed the rain we got yesterday, and more rain -- and maybe snow! -- is predicted this week. Unfortunately the weather doesn't look good for next weekend, when the next big protest is to be held, but that's OK.
I should be depressed about everything that's happening in this country, but somehow I'm not. I'm so happy about how people are responding. I got an email this morning from one of my cousins (he's 70, a staunch Democrat but not really someone you'd think of as an activist) and in it he wrote all about his political activity! He's been going to protests! I just couldn't stop smiling as I read the email, and of course I immediately responded and told him what I was doing.
I already have four of my five political tasks planned for this week.
I haven't done a Mounjaro report in a few weeks, and I don't think I will do one today either, since I gained two pounds on the trip, lol. It's fine, it'll come off quickly. I promise to do a report next weekend, whether the news is good or bad.
Would I go back to the Big Bend area? I would! Only not with the twins. I don't think it's really a teenager type of place. They were good sports, but I think both of them were puzzled as to why we were there at all. But I would go back. I want to swim in the pool at Balmorhea State Park! And I want to go to the areas of Big Bend National Park that we didn't see, especially the Rio Grande Village which is considered the big birding hotspot in the park.
Will we go back? I don't know. There are so many places in the world to go. But I'm 64 years old and I'm hoping to live to be 90. That gives me about 25 years to find the time to return. We'll see.